WINE OF THE WEEK 2004 Peterson West Vineyard Tradizionale Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel ($25) By Jon Bonné, Chronicle Wine Editor With the ZAP festival in San Francisco next week, we've all got Zin on the brain. Fred Peterson makes Zinfandels in a fashion that is increasingly rare nowadays — like classic Ridge Vineyards wines, they're often called claret-style. They have a bit of extra age on them (this is his latest release); a smidgen of overt oak (less than one-fifth new, and Hungarian barrels at that) that gives more savory flavors and less vanilla; and ripe flavors without big alcohol. This is a field blend from a dry-farmed Prohibition-era vineyard, filled with tobacco and leather aromas, plus elegant black fruit and dried cranberries. With so many Zins focused only on the sultry fruit, here's a chance to celebrate what we'll call the Big Tent philosophy of Zin: Every style has its place.